Cattleya – Flower Growing Stages

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The no-id rhizanthoid unifoliate Cattleya orchid that I recently bought has a a flower sheath and a small new growth. This new growth is still too tiny to see what it is going to be. It can be a new bulb or another flower sheath, any which way it certainly is happily welcome.

I will recorded the progress of the flower sheath and the new growth. I will make updates here until the flower has grown in full bloom and the new growth has reached the point where I am sure what it is going to be, a bulb or a sheath………………….

The Sheath:

Flower Sheath - January 9, 2014

Flower Sheath – January 9, 2014

January 24, 2014

January 24, 201

The New Growth:

A New Growth - Cattleya January 24, 2014

A New Growth – Cattleya January 24, 2014

January 30, 2014

No progress so far. Before the flower sheath looked like it was going to split open, but strangely now it seems to close again. It can be the unusual weather lately, very hot days then followed by cool temperature. The new growth has no progress also.

Update February 15, 2014

The sheath with a flower bud inside is now getting yellow and wilted. I don’t think that there will be a miracle to make the flower grow again. What happened? I can only blame it to the 6 days of temperatures above 40 de. C in Melbourne recently. The tiny new growth is still look green, though it remains small with no sign of getting bigger. The good thing is that the plant itself is okey with green and healthy looking foliage.

Dying Cattleya Sheath and Flower Bud

Dying Cattleya Sheath and Flower Bud

Tillandsia, Tanaman Udara

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Tillandsia melanocrater 'Tricolour'

Tillandsia melanocrater ‘Tricolour’

Tanaman udara? Ya betul, bahasa Inggrisnya adalah ‘air plant’ dan nama ilmiahnya adalah Tillandsia. Dinamakan demikian karena tanaman ini tidak memerlukan tanah untuk hidup.

Tillandsia Air Plants

Ditempat asalnya yaitu dihutan-hutan dan gurun di Amerika Selatan, Amerika Tengah dan bagian Selatan Amerika Serikat, tanaman ini hidup menempel dipepohonan tapi tahu diri karena sifatnya bukanlah parasit. Juga didaerah gurun, tanaman ini hidup menempel dibebatuan. Akarnya hanya digunakan untuk melilitkan diri didahan, supaya tidak diterbangkan angin. Untuk hidup, daun yang memiliki bulu-bulu halus (trichome) itu menyerap air dari udara dan juga menyerap air yang terkumpul didasar tanaman yang kaya dengan nutrisi karena tercampur dengan dedaunan dan serangga mati yang membusuk.

Tanaman Tilllandsia yang termasuk didalam keluarga besar Bromeliad ini, untuk mempercantik kebun dan dekor rumah membutuhkan cara tumbuh yang amat sederhana, karena tak perlu tanah sama sekali. Tanaman ini ditanam dengan menggunakan lem (lem silicon/yang tahan air) untuk menempelkan dan bisa ditempelkan dimana saja. Diatas bebatuan, karang, kayu, patung, dahan pohon dsb. Pangkal tanaman diolesi dengan sedikit lem dan ditempelkan. Ini bisa dilakukan oleh siapa saja tanpa harus kotor-kotor menggunakan tanah. Karena sifatnya yang tahan kering, tanaman ini tidak akan gampang mati, walau supaya subur bisa kadang-kadang disemprot dengan air dan diberi pupuk yang dicampur air. Menyemprotnya cukup dengan botol semprotan, jangan pakai selang air.

  • Tanaman udara ini cocok untuk suhu udara mulai dari 10 derajat s/d 32 derajat C.
  • Supaya bisa tumbuh dengan subur dan keluar anakannya, bisa sebulan sekali disemprot dengan air yang telah dicampur dengan ‘sedikit’ pupuk (pupuk soluble, separoh ukuran saja). Juga dimasa musim kering, tanaman bisa sering-sering disemprot dengan air supaya tidak kekeringan. Menyemprotnya lebih baik pakai botol semprotan. Kalau diletakkan diluar rumah, semasa musim hujan dimana udara basah, tanaman tak perlu disemprot air. Kebanyakan air bisa menyebabkan pembusukan.
  • Tempat yang cocok adalah tempat yang terkena sinar matahari tapi sedikit ternaung, mirip dengan tempat diantara dedahanan pohon.
  • Tillandsia memiliki sekitar 540 spesies dan banyak yang memiliki bunga warna warni, bentuk yang aneh dan warna daun yang indah. Cocok untuk memperindah dekor rumah misalnya diatas meja diberanda yang cukup terang. Didalam rumah didekat jendela atau tempat lain yang cukup terang. Bisa ditempelkan dikayu kering/apung, diatas patung, piring, mangkuk atau gelas terbalik dsb…. banyak sekali pilihan tergantung dari imaginasi anda.
  • Kalau ditempelkan ditempat simana air bisa menggenang (misalnya lekukan, dipiring dsb lebih baik dibuat lubang supaya air bisa mengalir keluar. Setelah ditempelkan tanaman ini bisa diletakkan diatas meja dsb atau digantung.
  • Tanaman dibiakkan dari offset/anakan yang dipisahkan dari induknya. Untuk ditempelkan, tanaman udara ini tidak harus punya akar.

Ketiga tanaman Tillandsia yang kami punya ditanam dengan ditempelkan diatas kayu kering yang bentuknya artistik. Selama tiga hari lebih dari 40 derajat Celsius di Melbourne saat ini, tanaman tersebut tetap tampak segar dan dua kali sehari disemprot air selama cuaca panas yang amat ekstrim. Juga selama udara teramat panas, tanaman diletakkan ditempat yang lebih terlindung dari sinar matahari. Ini membuktikan bahwa jenis tanaman ini lebih tahan hawa kering dan panas dibandingkan dengan hawa dingin dan terlalu basah.

Tillandsia diatas kayu kering

Tillandsia diatas kayu kering

Tillandsia brachycaulos

Tillandsia brachycaulos

Tillandsia stricta

Tillandsia stricta

Summer Scorcher

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Today was 43 deg. C and the next three days will be over 40 deg. C here around Melbourne area. Eventually summer has really arrived with a vengeance. The garden is not really looking that bad at the moment, as we have had enough rain falls during the spring and the first month of summer. The lawn is reasonably green and most of the plants seem to cope with sudden heat.

Two of the plants that are suffering are Jacobinia pauciflora and the Justicia carnea. These plants are absolutely wilted, especially the Justicia that is heavy with blooms. All the flowers are wilted away, nothing can be done about it. Watering will not help as the temperature is simply too hot for these temperate plants. They will not die, when the summer heat is over, they will recover. I will soon trim all the wilted flowers.

Some succulent plants are still flowering nicely and the red carpet rose plant is thriving. I had covered the part of the back yard where we keep all the bonsai trees and the Cymbidium orchids as they need some shade from the strong heat of the sun. Oh yes, the Cattleya flower has also dried up and I have cut it off. I never know for how long it had been flowering, it could have been for days before I bought it. Now I am waiting for the next flower sheath to bloom. I saw a very beautiful Cattleya orchid in Garden World the other day, the bifoliate one and the flowers are much smaller, but it is too expensive for my purse…… Cattleya orchids are known for much shorter living blooms compared to some other orchids.

Well…. this is my rambling for today. Now around 10.50 PM and it is still warm 32 deg. C…. I like to sleep in warm weather… with no blanket. Remind me the time when I still lived in Indonesia:)

Wilted Justicia carnea

Wilted Justicia carnea

Cotyledon orbiculata

Cotyledon orbiculata

Echeveria imbricata

Echeveria imbricata

Red Carpet Roses

Red Carpet Roses

January 15, 2014

The second day of 4 days sweltering heat this mid summer time in Melbourne. It is now 41.5 deg C, it feels a little bit better because of the clouds. I have watered all my plants, especially the bonsai trees and the Cymbidium orchids which are under cover now. The Sarcochilus orchids are watered well and placed underneath the table in the covered barbeque area in the back yard. Nearby, a large plastic tray are filled with pebbles and water to keep the humidity higher. I have made sure to spray the exposed roots of the Cattleya that hang outside the pot to prevent it from drying out.

Anything else? I just hope that there won’t be any ‘sick in the head people’ that try to set fire deliberately in this heat. Yesterday there were small fires in Kangaroo Ground , Little River and Dromana area, which were under control. Thanks for the dedicated fire fighters.

January 16, 2014′

Day 3 of the 4 days sweltering heat. Today reached  43.8 deg. C. The weather forecast yesterday predicted rain during the night, so yesterday evening we took off the made-up cover (by using old bed sheets) in the back yard as we are afraid they could not hold rain water and would fall on the plants. However…. it was only few large drops of rain that would have evaporated quickly, and this morning I had to hang the old sheet on again. The three days in a row over 40 deg. C have dehydrated more plants, the roses and gardenia blooms are all dry and wilted. I cannot imagine how many summer crops will be damage by this extreme heat. Tomorrow will be the last day of the scorching temperature and Saturday will be cool in the low 20′s.

January 17, 2014

Last day of extreme heat wave, now 37 deg C in the morning 10.25 AM (and reached 44 deg. by afternoon). There was a bad news, our dear friend in Coburg just rang with a sad news that her dog Danny died of heat stroke. The poor dog could not cope with the extreme heat and died suddenly. It looked like he suffered from breathing problem or heart attack. I am feeling very sad for my friend who is still very sad and shocked now. RIP Danny Boy….

Tonight 9.54 PM…. cool wind has started to come but the weather is still very unsettled about 30 deg. C and with very little drops of rains. I still can feel the uncomfortable heat from the ground. Few fires around Victoria with the largest in the Grampian area. Some caused by lightning strikes, but some were deliberately lit. Thank God that these extreme temperatures have finally over for now. No doubt that our planet is changing for the worst with predicted more extreme weather patterns in the future.

Cattleya – Another Flower

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Another note about our Cattleya orchid (NOID).

Flowers grow from near roots

Guess what? I spotted what is called a Cattleya sheath. It is where the flower bud will immerge. From the slightly transparent sheath I can see a bud. I am sure it will be another bloom! I am so very-very pleased.

My husband said that I was like a little kid with a brand new toy. Completely obsessed! Yes, I am really captivated by my very first Cattleya orchid. I read many articles and watched videos about it. How to grow it and all about the plant characteristics. From all that I have learned so far, all Cattleya flowers grow from the bottom of the leaves, so it is on the top of the long Pseudobulb.

Now the question is this: Why my Cattleya flower stem is growing from the bottom of the Pseudobulb near the roots? The flower sheath is also growing from the bottom. What kind of Cattleya hybrids that bear flowers this way? So far I haven’t found the answer.

Another Flower

January 10, 2013: I have found a little bit of answers about Cattleya flowers that grow from the base near the roots (actually from the rhizome). Also known as basal flower/inflorescence or rhizanthoid Cattleyas:

  • Cattleya walkeriana: (Walker’s Cattley’s) is a species of orchid. It differs from most species of Cattleya by having inflorescence which arise from the rhizome instead of from the apex of the Pseudobulb (Wikipedia)
  • Cattleya nobilior , which means the ‘more Noble Cattleya’,  referring to the flowers which are larger than those of C. walkeriana, another rhizanthoid Cattleyas, differ from most Cattleyas by having inflorescence which arise directly from the rhizome (Wikipedia).

So if there are Cattleya species that have basal flowers, there is a chance that my Cattleya is the result of a cross with one of those orchids. How interesting….. :)

____________________________ ***____________________________

11 Jan. 2014: One negative thing about Cattleyas, especially the unifoliate species is that the flowers don’t last very long. After having Phalaenopsis orchids in which the blooms last for more than 4 months and Cymbidiums that last over 2 – 3 months, it is really disappointing to see my Cattleya flower has already shown a sign of decline (only 4 days I brought it home). The edges of the thin petals have already started to thin out/dry out. Next time I will try to buy the bifoliate one as they say the flowers last longer. Maybe I will only have two or three Cattleyas, I hate to see orchids that don’t last long…. especially after all the efforts to look after them. Like my hubby always says…. you cannot win it all.

First Cattleya Orchid

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Cattleya Mauve Colour

I went to Caribbean market this morning. The weather today is sunny and pleasantly warm 24 - 27 deg. C. It is school holiday and also many people are still having their end of year holiday, so the market was very crowded when I got there.

Like usual I straight away went to the stall where orchids were sold. I could not believed that I saw a Cattleya orchid with one big mauve colour bloom. The only one there and the rests were Phalaenopsis. The price was much cheaper than those in the shop, so I bought it.

Wow…. my very first Cattleya orchid. It seems that growing Cattleya is easier than Phalaenopsis and here in Melbourne it can be kept outside under the shade. Looking at the plant, it seems like it is quite mature as it has many aerial  roots hanging down on one side of the pot.

Growing requirements for Cattleya orchid around Melbourne area:

  • Temperate to Tropical climates: 9 deg. C in winter and up to 35 deg C in summer.
  • Mature plants can be kept outside all year around with around 70 % sunlight (30% shade), never under direct sunlight. During very hot weather around summer time, keep it under 50 % shade. Young plants are better to keep indoor during very cold winter months.
  • If the leaves are too green, it means that the plant needs more sunlight. If the leaves are kind of yellow it means too much sunlight. The good leaves are supposed to be thick and stiff (not floppy).
  • Watering is done when the medium has started to feel dry (by poking a finger under the surface of the potting medium).
  • Half strength liquid fertilizer weekly or every watering time during hot weather.
  • Mist the area if humidity less than 50 %.
  • Planting medium consists of large bark chips, pieces of charcoals, a bit of perlite.
  • Repot when plant has become overcrowded.
My First Cattleya

My First Cattleya: No-Id Unifoliate

No_Id Cattleya

Note about Cattleya Orchids:

There are basically two different types of Cattleyas:

  • Unifoliate, Labiata group/Cat. labiata - there is only a single leaf grows on each bulb. The flowers can grow one to five on each stem and are usually big and ruffled. Repotting can be done in spring when the plant has started to get too large for the pot.
  • Bifoliate – mostly two leaves (can be more) on each bulb. It can have ten or more flowers on each spike and usually thicker, smaller and last longer compared to unifoliate ones. To repot bifoliate Cattleyas, has to wait until new bulb/leaf has started to grow roots and make sure not to break the new roots during re-potting process.

Cattleya - Big Lip

Back Garden Summer 2014

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First of all, thank you WordPress for the Annual Report. This time is very different and I love to see the firework display to represent each blog that I made in 2013.

From December to February is summer time in Australia. So far, here in Melbourne this summer has been very mild with only about four hot days above 35 deg. C. Today is sunny 20 deg. C.

I just trimmed some of the plants in the back yard; Diosmas (Coleonema pulchrum) and Murraya paniculata. So far we have had enough rainfalls to make plants grow green and luscious. The pink angel-wing/cane Begonia (Begonia coccinea) is flowering nicely.
Back Yard Jan. 2014

The colourful foliage of Hemizigya ‘Candy Kisses’ adds brightness to the garden though it is not flowering at this moment. The silver bush (Convolvulus cneorum) has not flowered as well. I think the colder weather has delayed the blooms to develop. While the Lily of the Valley (Pieris japonica) is not in flower also (still in tiny buds).

Back Garden Jan 2014

Last year I transplanted the Voodoo Lilies (Amorphophallus konjac) which is also known as Devil’s Tongue from the pot in to the garden. This tuberous herbaceous plant has slowly started to grow foliage. So far they  never flowered and it will surprise me if they will this year.

Voodoo Lily - Amorphophallus konjac

Voodoo Lily – Amorphophallus konjac

I am so glad that the Dragon Fruit plant (Hylocereus sp.) is recovering from frost damage last winter. Part of the plants were soft and rotten, but now it has grown quite a few of new stems. It starts to grow high about 180 cm and the areal roots also start to grow. I will cover it with a plastic sheet next winter. Hopefully it will have flowers and fruits by the end of this year.

Dragon Fruit - Many New Growths

Dragon Fruit Plant

Dragon Fruit Plant

Dragon Fruit Plant

So far the beginning of this new year has been so pleasant and kind for the garden. Hopefully the rest of this summer won’t be too hot and too dry.

Hoya kerrii ‘Albomarginata’

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Who will not fall in love with this climbing  succulent plant. The leaves are thick, large, and heart-shaped with green around the middle and creamy yellow around the edges. Even with no flowers, it is already very pretty. Hoya is a slow growing climber that can be trained on trellis or shaped into all sorts of forms.

Variegated Heart Shaped Hoya

I just bought this pretty hoya today in Garden World. It is my Christmas present. It hasn’t flowered yet but the flowers will be clusters of light pink with red star center. Growing requirements for Melbourne area/Australia:

  • Hoya kerrii ‘Albomarginata’, also known as Valentine’s Hoya or Heart Hoya.
  • Large heart-shaped variegated leaves.
  • Clusters of light pink and red flowers that are slightly perfumed.
  • Shaded but bright position outdoor,  if kept indoor may not flower.
  • Cool to intermediate range of temperatures. keep the plant under shade or indoor during winter time.
  • Keep the plant drier in winter and moist in summer.
  • Weakly weekly  liquid fertilizer during warmer months.
  • Similar soil to the one used for succulent (well drain).

My friend Vivi grows a small leaved hoya under her front yard veranda facing west and the plant is very happy and flowering. I had never seen a hoya plant with heart-shaped leaves that are so large before….  straight away I fall in love with it.

Pretty Hoya Kerrii 'Albomarginata'

Hoya Kerrii 'Albomarginata'

Note 23/12/2013:

I have been reading a lot about hoya plants especially Hoya kerrii. It seems that it is one of the biggest and the most robust type of hoya. Not the small and dainty one like the one that my friend has. Once it is mature, will quickly creeps everywhere and once the stems are hardened, they are not easy to train. So if the plant is out of control, it is necessary to prune it. Another thing to know is that H. kerrii flowers will release a lot of red/brown nectar, so much that the little flowers look like they are bleeding (I read somewhere that some people call this bleeding hoya flowers ‘Jesus Tears’). The nectar drips can be messy, so it is important to place the plant in a spot where it is easy to clean (by spraying water).

Hmmm….. can’t win it all, but I still like the variegated heart shaped leaves. Just wait and see what is going to happened later.

Repotting Cattleya Orchid

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It is not my orchid! My friend Rieka asked me to repot some of her orchids again this year. One of them is Cattleya Blc. Ballandean ‘Bette’ x Blc. Prophecy ‘Montere’. I know nothing about growing cattleyas as I have never grown them before. The plant was in a terrible state with a lot of dead bulbs and rhizomes. The few remaining leaves also look stressed. So before doing anything to it, I had to find out about Cattleya growing requirements in Melbourne area. For the very first time I learned that cattleyas have rhizomes similar to Iris plants.

Cattleya Orchid after Repotting.

Cattleya Orchid after Repotting.

  • Temperate to Tropical climates: 9 deg. C in winter and up to 35 deg C in summer. Mature plants can be kept outside all year around with  around 70 % sunlight (30% shade), never under direct sunlight. During very hot weather around summer time, keep it under 50 % shade. Young plants are better to keep indoor during very cold winter months.
  • If the leaves are too green, it means that the plant needs more sunlight. If the leaves are kind of yellow it means too much sunlight. The good leaves are supposed to be thick and stiff (not floppy).
  • Can flower all year around if winter is milder.
  • Watering is done when the medium has started to feel dry (by poking a finger under the surface of the potting medium).
  • Half strength liquid fertilizer weekly or every watering time during hot weather.
  • Mist the area if humidity less than 50 %.
  • Planting medium consists of large bark chips, pieces of charcoals, a bit of perlite.
  • Repot when plant has become overcrowded.

To repot Cattleyas generally similar to re-potting other orchids, by getting rid of dead materials. As the cattleya that I repotted had a lot of dead roots, rhizomes and bulbs, I cut all of them off before I replant it. I also get rid all of the growing media. Position the plant with the new growths (where the plant likely to grow) more towards the middle of the pot. I used a slightly smaller pot than before, a pot that is too large will make the medium too wet and cause root problems.

I never knew before that Cattleya orchids are supposed to be kept outdoor under the shade. I thought they have to be kept indoor (in temperate weather) like Phalaenopsis. Maybe I will try to get a couple for myself to try. The plants are small and do not take so much space like Cymbidiums, and the flowers are really beautiful.

Cattleya Orchid - A lot of dead bulbs and rhizomes

Cattleya Orchid – A lot of dead bulbs and rhizome

New Growths - Cattleya Orchid

New Growths – Cattleya Orchid

After finished repotting

After finished repotting


 December 21, 2013

Another Rieka’s orchid, very overgrown Cymbidium in a large pot. It was so very heavy, I could not take the plant out myself and my husband had to help me and eventually we ended up in cutting the plastic pot open.

I had never seen any Cymbidium grown in such a large pot and so over grown. Many leaves were damaged from fungal problems and sunburnt. More than half of the bulbs are without leaves and many of the foliage looked like they had been shredded on the tip. It was a surprise to see that the roots are quite healthy and plump. The small bark chips had almost completely disintegrated leaving only a compact ball of roots. I managed to divide the large plant into two section and each has three back bulbs. I saved the rest of the healthy back bulbs with roots to grow later. After I tidied them up, they look quite ok.

Overgrown Cymbidium Orchid

Overgrown Cymbidium Orchid

Two newly repotted Cymbidium from the 2 divisions

Two newly repotted Cymbidium from the 2 divisions


Another orchid belongs to Rieka, I am not sure but I think it is another miniature Dendrobium. How odd, I just got one from Vivi but with reddish bulbs/stems. Rieka’s small orchid was also had a lot of grass growing and with most of the leaves were dry or eaten by snails (?). It was in a deep and large pot, so I repotted them into two smaller squat pots. I think miniature Dendrobium like to be pot bound.

Rieka's Mini Dendrobiums

I think it is miniature Dendrobium

Japanese Sweet Flag Grass

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Japanese Sweet Flag GrassThe variegated Japanese Sweet Flag grass had grown too big for our fish tub. The roots were hanging down in the water and the leaf canopy had started to look so untidy. Yesterday I took it out of the pot with much difficulty, had to split the plastic pot. I had cleaned and replanted some part of it to go back to the tub and planted some more in a small pot. Still have more left with no idea what to do with them.

A Big Clump of Japanese Sweet Flag GrassAcorus gramineus variegatus or widely known as variegated Japanese Sweet Flag grass is a bog plant that love to have wet feet. Very suitable to grow on the edges of ponds, in the garden where the soil tends to be wet or in pots.

To grow this small and pretty plant in pots will need a lot of water and can sit the pots on a tray of water. The way I do it is growing them in pots that have no holes. The bottom layer consists of small pebbles, then I top it up with sandy soil and plant the grass there and cover the soil with more pebbles. After finished potting it up, I fill it with water to the brim to create similar condition as boggy area on the edge of a pond or lake. I use a weak measure of liquid fertilizer to make the plant healthy.

The creamy colour flower spikes are quite small and tend to grow in between the foliage, so this plant is mainly grown for the pretty looking leaves. To make it look tidy, cut the yellow and dry leaves.

  • Acorus gramineus variegatus/variegated Japanese Sweet Flag grass/Japanese rush.
  • Need a lot of water, suitable for boggy area, edges of pond or grown as water plant. If grown in pots keep the soil moist all the time.
  • Form low and rounded clumps about 30 cm high.
  • Medium to bright light.
  • Warm and humid condition away from frost.
  • Liquid fertilizer during warm season. Note: If grown in a pond or as water plant and there are also fish there, the plant does not need any fertilizer. If there is no fish, special fertilizer for water plant will be suitable to use.

Japanese Sweet Flag - Water Garden Tub

Acorus gramineus variegatus - Japanese Sweet Flag

Saving Dying Orchid

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Last Saturday December 7, I went to visit a friend in Coburg. The warm and sunny weather made the visit enjoyable. We went to Vasili’s Garden Centre and Café in Munro st. Coburg. A small nursery and interesting café. We just looked around to see the plants there. My friend bought a small pot of miniature palm and later at her place, the palm was divided into two small clumps and she gave one to me. After visiting the nursery we went to Preston market to have lunch, looked around and bought a bit of vegetables.

From Preston market, we went to Lalor to visit my friend’s niece and another window shopping in Epping Plaza.

Anyway, to cut the story short, she also gave me her neglected and dying orchid plant. She doesn’t know what kind of orchid it is. What I saw was small stunted kind of pseudo-bulbs with a bit of small and thick leaves. It could be some kind of miniature Dendrobium.  The poor orchid was grown in ordinary potting mix and the pot was full of clover weeds. She said that I can have and save it, nice pink flowers…… Apparently this orchid plant was given to my friend from her other friend. It was flowering when it was given to her, but many years went by and it never bloomed again. It was kind of forgotten and neglected in her front garden exposed to all weather elements.

So another mystery orchid! At home I took the miserable orchid plant out of the pot, cleaned all the soil, the weeds and also got rid of the dead bulbs and stems. I repotted them into a slightly smaller pot with a special orchid medium. I finished it up by giving the plant a drink of seaweed fertilizer:)

See what is going to happen in the next few weeks…. Oh yes, I planted the mini palm in a pot, but later I plan to add it into the terrarium. I am not so sure what kind of palm, but it is really tiny. I hope it will stay small.

Close up No-Id Orchid

Close up No-Id Orchid

Saving Dying No-Id Orchid - Top View

Saving Dying No-Id Orchid – Top View

Miniature Palm

Miniature Palm

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